Nesting Box Dimensions for Chickens: Size, Height and How Many

Quick answer: a standard chicken nesting box should be about 12 inches wide, 12 inches tall and 12 inches deep. Bantams can use 10-inch boxes, and big breeds like Brahmas and Jersey Giants need about 14 to 16 inches. Mount boxes 18 to 24 inches off the floor, lower than your roosts, and plan on one box for every 4 to 5 hens.

You know what’s not fun? A morning Easter egg hunt every day because your hens decided the bushes, the feed bin and the corner of the run were all better than the nest boxes. I’ve been there. Getting the box size, height and setup right fixed most of it for my flock.

Below are the measurements I use, a dimensions chart for every size of bird, and the little details (bedding, curtains, roll-away floors) that make hens actually want to lay where you want them to.

Nesting box dimensions chart

Use this as your starting point. A hen should be able to turn around and settle in, but the box should still feel snug and hidden. Too big and two hens squeeze in together and break eggs.

These line up with Utah State University Extension’s housing guide, which recommends nest boxes 12 to 15 inches tall and wide, at least 12 inches deep, mounted at least 18 inches off the floor, with one box for every four to five hens.

How big should a chicken nesting box be?

For most standard hens, a 12-inch cube is right. That includes the breeds most of us keep: Rhode Island Reds, Australorps, Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks, Leghorns and even Orpingtons. My Buff Orpingtons look huge because of their fluff, but they fit a 12-inch box just fine.

Go up to 14 to 16 inches only for the true giants: Brahmas, Jersey Giants, Cochins and Langshans. Bantams are happiest in a 10-inch box. Hens like feeling tucked in. A box that’s too roomy feels exposed, and you’ll find two hens crammed in together.

Not sure which group your birds fall into? My chicken breeds chart lists the size of each breed, and this post on bantams vs standard chickens explains the difference.

How high off the ground should nesting boxes be?

Mount the bottom of the box 18 to 24 inches off the coop floor. That keeps eggs away from scratching feet, floor moisture and rodents, and it saves floor space.

The rule that matters most: nest boxes must be lower than your roosts. Chickens want to sleep in the highest spot available. If the boxes are higher than the roost bars, your hens will sleep in them and fill them with poop overnight. I keep my roosting bars about 2 to 3 feet up and a good foot above the top of the nest boxes. Utah State recommends keeping roosts no more than about 3 feet off the ground.

Heavy breeds and older hens are the exception. Brahmas and Jersey Giants don’t jump well and can hurt their feet landing, so I keep their boxes closer to 12 to 18 inches or add a little ladder or perch bar in front.

How many nesting boxes do you need per hen?

Plan on one nesting box for every 4 to 5 hens. Some sources, like Manitoba Agriculture, suggest one per 3 to 4 hens, which is a good idea if you have a broody-prone breed that hogs a box for weeks.

Don’t be surprised if every hen insists on the same box anyway. Mine line up for one favorite and ignore the rest. Hens like to lay where other hens have laid. Adding a spare box still helps when someone goes broody. If you’re sizing a coop from scratch, my chicken coop size calculator works out nest boxes, roost length and floor space together, and this guide covers how much space chickens need.

Do chickens need nesting boxes?

Technically, no. A hen will lay in any quiet, hidden spot where she feels safe. Nesting boxes are mostly for us: clean eggs in one place, easy to collect.

They help the hens too. A good box gives them privacy, a soft spot to lay, and protection from predators like raccoons, rats and snakes that go after eggs. Eggs in a box also get broken and pecked less, which helps head off an egg-eating habit. If that’s already happening, see my tips to stop chickens from eating eggs.

Where to put nesting boxes in the coop

• In the darkest, quietest corner. Away from the pop door, windows and the busiest part of the coop.
• Not under the roosts. Anything below the roost bars gets pooped on overnight.
• Easy for you to reach. Outside-access boxes with a hinged lid make egg collection and cleaning much easier. Make sure the lid latches with a carabiner or a two-step latch, since raccoons can open simple hooks.
• Out of drafts and direct sun. Eggs and hens both do better in a stable, shaded spot.
• Inside the coop, not the run, so eggs are protected overnight.

Can you stack nesting boxes?

Yes. Stacked or side-by-side rows both work, and the hens don’t seem to care whether they’re on the top or bottom row. Just keep the top row lower than your roosts, add a landing perch in front of each row, and make sure the top of the whole unit is sloped so nobody sleeps up there.

Do nesting boxes need a top?

They don’t strictly need one, but a top makes hens feel safer and keeps droppings out. I’d go one step further: slope the roof at about 45 degrees. A flat top becomes a perch, and a perch becomes a poop shelf.

Nesting box curtains

A simple fabric curtain over the front of the box makes it darker and more private, which a lot of hens love. Curtains can also cut down on egg eating, since hens can’t see the eggs as easily, and they help a broody hen feel hidden.

I use a strip of feed-sack fabric cut into a few vertical slits so the hens can push through. Hang it from the top edge, leave it rolled up for a few days so they get used to the box, then let it down.

Roll-away nesting boxes

A roll-away box has a floor that slopes gently toward the back, usually around 8 to 12 degrees, so the egg rolls out of reach into a covered tray after it’s laid. Eggs stay cleaner, hens can’t peck at them, and broodiness drops because there are no eggs to sit on.

The trade-off is that hens don’t always take to them right away, and you can only use a thin nest pad instead of deep bedding. They’re worth a look if you have an egg eater or need very clean eggs to sell.

How to build a chicken nesting box

You can make a nesting box from almost anything: plywood, a milk crate, a cat litter pan, a five-gallon bucket on its side, an old dresser drawer. What matters is that it’s sturdy, the right size, and easy to clean.

• Size: cut to the dimensions in the chart above.
• Front lip: add a 4 to 6 inch board across the bottom of the opening to hold bedding and eggs in.
• Landing perch: a 2×2 strip a few inches below the opening gives hens a place to hop up.
• Sloped roof: about 45 degrees.
• Hinged lid or back panel: for easy collecting and cleaning.
• Removable floor or liner: makes scrubbing much easier.

Every hen should want privacy, quiet, low light, safety and a clean nest. If your box ticks those boxes, it’ll get used. If you’re still planning the rest of the coop, my post on the parts of a chicken coop walks through everything else.

Best material for nesting boxes

Whether you buy them or build them, the biggest concern is keeping the boxes clean and mite-free. Look for something you can scrub and disinfect.

• Wood: cheap and easy to build with, but it’s porous, which gives mites places to hide, and it breaks down over time. Seal or paint the inside to help.
• Metal: long-lasting and easy to clean, but it gets cold in winter and hot in summer.
• Plastic: easy to clean and sterilize, lightweight and usually budget-friendly. My favorite for a removable liner.

Best bedding for nesting boxes

Good nest bedding is soft, absorbent, low-dust and easy to replace. It cushions the eggs and keeps them clean.

Avoid cedar shavings, which give off strong oils that are hard on chickens’ lungs. For more options, see the best bedding for chickens.

How much bedding should be in a nesting box?

Use 3 to 4 inches of bedding. That’s enough to cushion eggs without spilling over the lip. Top it up whenever it gets flattened or kicked out.

How often should nesting box bedding be replaced?

Pull out any dirty or wet bedding as soon as you see it, and do a full change every two to four weeks, depending on how many hens you have. Each time you change it, check the corners for mites.

Herbs for chicken nesting boxes

I like tucking a handful of dried herbs into the nests. They make the coop smell lovely, and some are thought to help keep bugs away. The evidence is mostly anecdotal, but my hens don’t mind, and it’s a nice touch:

• Lavender: calming scent
• Mint: strong aroma that may deter insects and rodents
• Lemon balm: fresh scent, may deter rodents
• Thyme and oregano: popular with keepers for respiratory health
• Marigold petals: may repel insects
• Basil, parsley, dill and fennel: safe, fragrant, and the hens like to nibble them

Want to grow your own? Here are the best herbs to grow for chickens.

How do you get chickens to lay in nesting boxes?

Sometimes it feels like hens go out of their way to hide their eggs. If yours are laying everywhere but the boxes, here’s what has worked for me:

1. Put the boxes in before they start laying. Pullets usually start around 18 to 22 weeks, so have the boxes ready by 16 weeks.
2. Add fake eggs or golf balls. Hens copy each other, and a “nest egg” shows them where to lay.
3. Keep the boxes clean and fluffy. Dirty, flat bedding is a turn-off.
4. Make them dark and private. Add curtains or move the boxes to a dimmer corner.
5. Fix the roost height. Roosts should be higher than the boxes so no one sleeps in them.
6. Keep them in the coop until late morning. Most hens lay before noon, so letting them out a little later for a week or two retrains them.
7. Have enough boxes. One per 4 to 5 hens, plus a spare for broody season.

If a hen won’t leave the box at all, she may be broody. Here’s how to care for a broody hen.

My take

Keep it simple: a 12-inch box for most hens, 18 to 24 inches off the floor, lower than the roosts, one box for every 4 to 5 hens, and 3 to 4 inches of clean bedding. Get those right and the daily Easter egg hunt is over.

Enjoy your stress-free egg collecting!

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